Research Article

19th-Century Fashion of Elite Hungarian Women

Ying ZhangHungarian Communication Studies Centre, The Academy of International and Regional Communication Studies (AIRCS), Communication University of China, Beijing, China*

* Corresponding author: [email protected]

Abstract

In 19th-century Europe, clothing functioned as a dynamic social language that articulated intricate hierarchies of status, age, and cultural belonging. This study examines Budapest’s transformation into a sartorial laboratory where emerging nationalism collided with Western sartorial trends. From the first half of the 19th century, the rapid development of fashion and related industries in the Hungarian capital was driven not only by technological innovations in European textile production but also by the proliferation of fashion magazines and the dissemination of sartorial trends. Hungarian elite women played a pivotal role in shaping these developments, as middle-class women actively emulated their attire—observed at court balls, horse races, and other public events—through fashion media. Building on these developments, this study analyzes the dress codes associated with 19th-century social rituals and highlights the emergence of Hungarian ceremonial dress as a sartorial expression of national consciousness. Prior to the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867—particularly between the 1830s and 1860s—this form of attire functioned as a visual symbol of Hungarian national identity and cultural resistance among the country’s upper and middle classes. By reconstructing the clothing practices and social etiquette of upper-class Hungarian women, the study demonstrates how fashion became a contested terrain where personal aspirations, national identity, and European modernity were perpetually negotiated. These findings provide new insights into the interplay of cultural politics and material culture in Central Europe’s historical trajectory.

Keywords: fashion; sartorial regulations; national identity
Published: May 15, 2025
DOI: 10.54254/2753-7064/2025.22827
Volume: CHR Vol.57
pp. 68-80
Download PDF

References

  1. Réka, Szentesi. (2018). The theoretical background of fashion history research. In Dózsa, Katalin., Szatmári, Judit, Anna., Szentesi, Réka. (Eds.), Fashion, culture, history. Studies in fashion history (pp. 11–35). Budapest: Eotvos Lorand University Press. ISBN 9789632849812
  2. Xiaohong, Zhou. (1995). Sociological Research on the Fashion Phenomenon. Sociological Studies, 1955(3), 35–46.
  3. Joanne, Entwistle. (2005 [2000]). Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory. (Gao Yuanbao, Trans.). Guilin: Guangxi Normal University Press Group.
  4. Anikó, Lukács. (2017). National fashion in Pest in the 19th century. Budapest: Budapest City Archives.ISBN 9786155635106
  5. Georg, Simmel. (1973). Fashion. In Berényi Gábor (Trans.), Georg Simmel. Selected studies in social theory (pp. 473–507). Budapest: Gondolat. ISBN 9638609621
  6. Lilla, Tompos. (2022). INFLUENCES – SIGNS – DIRECTIONS: Changes in the meaning of Hungarian clothing from the 16th to the 20th century. Budapest: Martin Opitz Publishing. ISBN 9789639987944
  7. Katalin, Dózsa. (2018). The birth and development of fashion magazines from the late 18th century to 1830. In Dózsa Katalin, Szatmári Judit Anna, & Szentesi Réka (Eds.), Fashion, culture, history. Studies in fashion history (pp. 36–73). Budapest: Eotvos Lorand University Press. ISBN 9789632849812
  8. Katalin, Dózsa. (2012a). From Attila to Atilla: The beginnings of fashion design in the Reform Era and the appearance of national costume. In Dózsa Katalin (Ed.), 1116 years of Hungarian fashion: Hungarian dress from the conquest to the early 21st century (pp. 72–103). Budapest: Absolut Media Zrt. ISBN 9789630830652
  9. DANCE. Hommuvesz, 1839, Issue No. 3, January 10, p. 24. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/Honmuvesz/
  10. Katalin, Dózsa.(2012b). The golden age of fashion in Budapest. In 1116 years of Hungarian fashion: Hungarian dress from the conquest to the early 21st century] (pp. 104–141). Budapest: Absolut Media Zrt. ISBN 9789630830652
  11. Anikó, Lukács. (2016). Endre Jámbor and the men's fashion bulletin: Tailoring journals in the 1860s. In Dózsa Katalin, Szatmári Judit Anna, & Vér Eszter Virág (Eds.), Fashion, Individual, Society. Proceedings of the Fashion History Scientific Conference (pp. 111–128). Budapest: Eotvos Lorand University Press. ISBN 9789632848136
  12. Katalin, Dózsa . (2003c). In search of lost time – The red stagecoach. In Dózsa Katalin & Hegyiné Déri Erzsébet (Eds.), Paris and Budapest in the Mirror of Fashion 1750–2003 (pp. 61–62). Budapest: Pauker Printing. ISBN963-9340-21-9
  13. Patrícia, Maisch. (2019). Traces of girls' education in 19th-century women's diaries. In Ács Marianna, Czeferner Dóra, Pusztafalvi Henriette, & Takács Zsuzsanna Mária (Eds.), ‘Women must know many things...’ New Research on the History of Girls' Education (pp. 145–159). Pécs: Kronosz Publishing House. ISBN 9786156048424
  14. Katalin, Dózsa. (1977). Austro-Hungarian relations and interactions in the field of fashion between 1850 and 1916. Folia Historica, 1977/05, 179–197. ISSN 0133-662 2
  15. DANCE. Hommuvesz, Issue No. 13, February 14, p. 104. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/Honmuvesz/
  16. Fashion Trifles. Honderu, 1843, Issue No. 2, January 14, pp. 74–75. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/Honderu/
  17. Zsuzsa, Kunics. (2021. január 26). Proper Ball Attire for Ladies – Dress Codes in the 19th Century. Retrieved from https://tgym.hu/index.php/blog/654-holgyek-illendo-bali-viselete-oltozkodesi-szabalyok-a-19-szazadban
  18. Zsuzsa, Kunics. (2021. január 18). Evening or Ball Dress? – Dress Codes at the End of the 19th Century. Retrieved from https://tgym.hu/index.php/blog/653-estelyi-vagy-bali-ruha-oltozkodesi-szabalyok-a-19-szazad-vegen
  19. ABOUT OUR HORSE RACES. Vasarnapi Ujsag, 1891, Issue No. 40, p. 654-655. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/VasarnapiUjsag/
  20. Eleonóra, Géra., Andor, Mészáros.(2021). Society, Lifestyle, Mentality]. Budapest: Dean of the Faculty of Humanities at Eotvos Lorand University. ISBN 978-963-489-376-9
  21. Sarolta. (1891). FASHION REPORT. Vasarnapi Ujsag, Issue No. 16, pp. 275–276. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/VasarnapiUjsag/
  22. Katalin, Dózsa. (2003a). Ladies’ Delight – Black Diamonds. In Dózsa Katalin & Hegyiné Déri Erzsébet (Eds.), Paris and Budapest in the Mirror of Fashion 1750–2003 (pp. 49–52). Budapest: Pauker Printing. ISBN963-9340-21-9
  23. WOMEN'S WORK AND FASHION. Fans as Room Decorations. Vasarnapi Ujsag, 1887, Issue No. 3, p. 46-47. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/VasarnapiUjsag/
  24. [WHAT’S THE NEWS? The Fan Exhibition. Vasarnapi Ujsag, 1891, Issue No. 20, p. 328. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/VasarnapiUjsag/
  25. Donka, Maros. (2002). Charming Trifles. The Fan Collection of the Museum of Applied Arts. 1700–1920. Budapest: Balassi Publishing House. Magyar Iparművészeti Múzeum. ISBN 963-506-480-2
  26. New World Lexicon of Tolnai (1928). 10. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/Lexikon_TolnaiVilaglexikon/
  27. INDUSTRIAL EXHIBITION 1845. (Second and final publication). Honderu, 1843. szeptember 16., p. 353. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/Honderu/
  28. Honderu, 1844. november 30. p.371-372. Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/Honderu/
  29. City News. Pesti Divatlap, 1844. december 15., p. 171.Retrieved from https://adt.arcanum.com/hu/collection/RegeloPestiDivatlap/?decade=1840
  30. Borovi, Dániel. (2016). The Problem of Costume History as a Source in Queen Elisabeth's Hungarian Portraits. In Dózsa Katalin, Szatmári Judit Anna, & Vér Eszter Virág (Eds.), Fashion, Individual, Society. Proceedings of the Fashion History Scientific Conference (pp. 91–110). Budapest: Budapest: Eotvos Lorand University Press. ISBN 9789632848136
  31. Katalin, Dózsa. (2003b). Effect–Countereffect – Paris–Budapest. In Dózsa Katalin & Hegyiné Déri Erzsébet (Eds.), Paris and Budapest in the Mirror of Fashion 1750–2003(pp. 56–57). Budapest: Pauker Printing. ISBN 963-9340-21-9